The Brewers Association (that’s the big, national one, not the Montana one) recently stirred up a major backlash when its op-ed piece appeared in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch on December 13, 2012.  The piece was written by Charlie Papazian and Bob Pease, President and COO of the Brewer’s Association, and Dan Kopman, CEO of Schlafly Beer in St. Louis.  

In a nut shell, the piece lambasted non-craft brewers for entering the “craft” market using tactics which do not provide full disclosure about the origin of the product. The Brewers Association defines a craft brewer as being small, independent and traditional.  

Those are fine qualities, but as the resulting controversy demonstrated, the Brewers Association’s definition draws a line in the sand many “craft” beer fans are having trouble accepting.  The Association is also being a bit crafty.  While it defines what a craft brewer is, it does not define “craft beer.” It leaves that determination up to us beer drinkers.  That appears to suggest a non-craft brewer can nevertheless brew craft beer and vice versa.  That doesn’t make any sense. 

So, I was a bit surprised to see the same op-ed piece – altered to include Montana specific details – appear in the Great Falls Tribune this week.  This time, the authors were listed as Charlie Papazian, Bob Pease and Tony Herbert, Executive Director of the Montana Brewers Association. 

Tony Herbert does a nice job adding Montana details explaining the economic impact of the Montana’s brewing industry and otherwise encouraging support for local breweries. Yet, the heart of the “craft versus crafty” debate that caused a major stir throughout the brewing and beer blogging world remains front and center.  The Montana Brewers Association also posted the op-ed piece on the front page of their website with the title “Craft versus Crafty? Think about what you are drinking.”  (Actually, their title has a misspelling and reads “Craft versus Craft,” but I have no room to talk when it comes to typos.)  

While it is an important issue that bears discussion, the manner in which the Brewers Association (the big one) distinguishes between craft and non-craft brewers was quickly exposed as being . . . . problematic.  The op-ed piece specifically mentions products manufactured by AB-InBev and MillerCoors that you might not have know were brands from the big boys.  “Faux craft” beers according to the Brewers Association.  Trickery to make you think you’re buying something you’re not. 

Bud and Coors have long been easy targets for craft beer fans, but the Brewers Association didn’t stop there.  They also issued a chart showing who was and was not a craft brewer and that’s where the real firestorm began.  

My thoughts on the subject (which include links to more of the reaction) ended up being our year-end close-out post on December 31.  Read it, if you like, or take the easy way out and stay here for the point: distinguishing between craft and non-craft brewers is no longer as easy as choosing between bitter, crummy, yellow fizz and wonderfully delicious “craft” beer.

The reaction that hit home the most for me came from Jace Marti, a sixth generation owner of August Schell Brewing Co. According to the Brewers Association, August Schell is not a “craft brewer” because they use adjuncts in their beer and, therefore, are not “traditional.” 

Yet, Jace politely and directly explained why: When August Schell emigrated from Germany and founded the brewery in 1860, he had to use the the ingredients available to him, including corn.  Corn was not used to cheapen the beer, but because it was the only way to brew a high quality lager beer in America.  Thus, Jace asks, why is August Schell being punished by the Brewers Association for using an ingredient which “started out of necessity, and has continued out of tradition?”

His question demonstrates the trouble many of us have accepting the “craft versus crafty” stance adopted by the Brewers Association.  Case in point: I recently traded two Ivan the Terrible Imperial Stouts from our local Big Sky Brewing Co. (a craft brewer) for two Bourbon County Brand Coffee Stouts from Chicago’s Goose Island Beer Co. (a non-craft brewer). Yes, I am somewhat conflicted that Goose Island, brewers of the Bourbon County Brand lineup, is now owned by AB-InBev and I worry about it’s future.  But that stuff is freakishly good. (The Ivan is damn good as well.)  I’ve met some of the Goose Island brewers and they’re not evil, corporate robots.

In response to the backlash, the Brewers Association subsequently pulled the chart, promising to replace it with something more positive.  Either the Montana Brewers Association is running late to the party, or didn’t get the follow up memo.  

We are in the midst of a Montana legislative session that once again proves logic often escapes political debate.  The Montana Brewers Association is actively working the halls, looking out for all Montana breweries whether members or not.   Although the Montana brewing industry contributed almost $50 million to Montana’s economy in 2011 alone, some legislators are more than willing to stifle the industry with restrictive, damaging regulation.  That is a far more important and pressing issue than worrying about the craft versus crafty debate.

Support small and independent craft brewers across Montana?  Check. No one needs to tell us how important that is.  Help give them a chance to thrive? Check.  Create more jobs? Check.  Boost the economy? Check.  These are the reasons the MBA exists.  They are well worth thinking about when we choose what to drink, but not with blind adherence to the “craft versus crafty” line in the sand drawn by the Brewers Association (the big one).

What sounds good in a vacuum may actually suck when considered in context.